Fifty minutes northeast of Kandy the fertile landscape becomes a mass of lush vegetation reverberating with unfamiliar birdsong. The human populace too seem a different breed, profligate with smiles and allowing their abundant good sat sung to spill over and cloak the visitor. Go past the triangular ambalama and up the steps where you squeeze past the statue of a giant Hindu goddess - half woman, half horse.
Inside the entrance hall at Samadhi you are watched over by a silk tapestry depicting seven Buddhist monks each holding a lotus blossom in their hand. Each monk is a different shade of brown. Likewise, the cultural diversity of this island is reflected in the villagers, who form the core of what makes Samadhi run smoothly; they are unspoiled and courteous; every man, woman or boy will calmly break from sweeping the stone pathway, lighting the oil lamp or picking fresh produce for your lunch to wish you “Ayubowan!” the traditional Sinhala welcome which means “Let there be long life!”
Samadhi weaves its magic on you from the moment you enter through the massive Kandyan doorway set into stone. Suri mama, the soft-spoken guardian of Samadhi and its Manager, is there to greet you. He is also resident artist who is responsible for the murals of Tantric art on the walls.
Ayurvedic healing has for centuries been integral to Sri Lankan culture and healing. Every villager will have access to a wise man or Vedarala who will have remedies for this indigenous treatment handed down the generations through chants, ola leaf manuscripts and secret formulae. For those who come for a holistic approach to the following ailments, consultation with a leading Ayurvedic physician is available at Samadhi.
The concept of Samadhi is a testament to a new era in Sri Lankan development where the ambience of old village life and the westerner’s desire to escape to nature can merge. But take heed - no two visits to this unique place can ever be the same. The visitor constantly finds new levels of intrigue and inspiration. You need time to absorb the intricate nuances which begin to unravel between visits.
Remember there is no Sinhala word for goodbye. The person about to depart calls out “ Mama gehilla enang! I will go and return. To which the response is ‘Gehing enna! Yes, go and return!”
Once you find your way to Samadhi, you will understand why returning there is also part of your journey.
